Electric Bike Advice and Tips
If you're new to the world of electric bikes, you may have lots of questions about bikes, buying them and looking after them. This section should help to answer those questions, and suggest where to look if you decide to make a purchase.
This guide is a 'work in progress' and we'll be adding to it, updating and inserting photos as we go along, and as the technology changes! Please do let us know if you spot any errors or have suggestions. Last update: July 2012.
What is an electric bike?
An electric bike is a normal bicycle that has been adapted or manufactured to
incorporate the assistance of an electric motor, while keeping the usual pedals and bicycle transmission.
The motor assistance can help the rider go further than they would under their own power, tackle
bigger hills, or simply ride with less effort.
Assuming they comply with the regulations (as almost all reputable electric bikes sold in the UK do), they do not require tax, insurance or a licence to
use, and can be used wherever a standard bicycle can go, including
cycle paths. There's more about the legalities in the 'Legal' section below.
Why choose an electric bike?
There are numerous benefits to owning an electric bike, whether you are
already a regular cyclist or contemplating taking up cycling for the
first time. Indeed, many of the advantages of non-assisted cycling
apply to electric bikes too.
- Get fit
In an increasingly sedentary world, more
exercise would be a good thing for many of us, and building cycling
into your routine is a good way to get that exercise. Even on a bike
that has a motor helping you, you will get exercise, unless you choose
to run it entirely on the motor. Many electric bikes require you to
turn the pedals for the motor to work anyway, and just turning the
pedals will keep joints mobile and burn more calories than sitting in a
car or on a bus. If you suffer from painful leg joints, then the gentle
workout offered by an electric bike might help, even if pushing hard is
Of course, if you want an all-out no-pain-no-gain workout, a standard
bike will make you work harder. But will you keep it up? Like a crash
diet that leaves you feeling hungry all the time, taking on a long
commute or a hilly locality might mean you start off with good
intentions, but then start to find excuses to back out, and leave the
bike in the shed. An electric bike, like a sensible balanced diet,
could help you to maintain your level of activity, meaning that you get
more exercise in the long run, using it several times a week. And of
course, as you gain fitness, you can choose to use the assistance less
and less, perhaps only on the worst hills, or into the strongest
headwinds. And with assistance, you might feel able to travel further,
increasing the amount of time you spend exercising.
Cycling isn't just about physical fitness either - there can be huge
benefits in terms of well being, just from being out in the fresh air,
seeing the countryside at a human pace, hearing the birds and
experiencing the seasons. An electric bike can help you to do all that,
just as a standard bike can.
- Save money
With the cost of motoring or public
transport ever rising, cycling for regular transport is one way to make
your money go further. AA figures for petrol or for diesel suggest that the cost of
running a car, including fuel, parts, servicing, tolls and so on, is
between £ 0.26 and £ 2.38 a mile. For non-assisted bikes, the cost is around
4.2 pence a mile, and for electric bikes it's between 5 and 8 pence a
mile. So even assisted cycling is much cheaper than running a private
car. Electric bikes do cost a little more than non-assisted bikes to
buy in the first place, but they often hold their value well, and if
you replace regular short car journeys with cycling, you can recoup the
money quite quickly, and gain all the advantages of cycling. In places
like London, where congestion charges apply, you will be exempt from
them, and you won't have the expense of parking charges. It might be
wise to make sure that your bike is insured against theft or damage, of
course, and this may be possible through your household insurance, or a
specialist scheme such as the ETA which explicitly covers electric bikes.
- Save time
As with non-assisted cycling, electric bikes can offer door-to-door
convenience for commuting and shopping. Rows of cycle parking stands
are usually available in the middle of town or outside supermarkets,
and if not, you can often find a lampost or sturdy railing to lock your
bike to. There's rarely any hunting for a parking space, or finding the
right change for the ticket machine. With a basket on your handlebars,
you can easily pick up a few odds and ends, and with a good set of
panniers on your rack, you can fit in a few carrier bags of groceries.
And if you're really keen, then just like a regular bike, an electric
bike can tow a trailer, for even more shopping, or a couple of kids!
- Go further, faster, fresher
Even if you already cycle a little, an electric bike could extend your
range, allowing you to do regular trips that you'd struggle to manage
otherwise, such as a long commute, or a route that can't avoid the big
hills. If you'd like to cycle to work, but are afraid it would leave
you too hot and sweaty on arrival, electric assist could allow you to
moderate your effort, and still arrive on time. And in the rush hour,
bicycles are often faster than cars, because although a car can achieve
a higher speed, it's more often stuck in a jam, while the bike filters
past or takes advantage of cyclepaths and short cuts. For the same
reason, journey times by bike can be more reliable, and less subject to
delay due to roadworks, or a set of faulty traffic lights.
- Go green
While electric bikes obviously consume some energy, that consumption is
still far less than even the greenest car or motorbike - the only CO2
emitted in use is from your lungs, and there are no fumes from an
exhaust pipe. And if you get your power from a green supplier, or even
generate your own with a wind turbine or solar panels, an electric bike
is truly sustainable.
There are also embedded energy costs to an electric bike - and a few nasty materials in some batteries - but the quantities are small, especially compared to most other modes of transport.
- Have fun!
A lot of the points above seem very 'worthy',
but cycling can also just be great fun! If an electric bike allows you
to cycle when otherwise you'd struggle to, then all sorts of activities
are open to you - rides with the children or grandchildren, days out
with friends for a picnic - even a touring holiday, if you can carry
the charger and recharge the battery each night - staying at a Bed and
Breakfast or hotel ought to make this possible. With a bike ready to
go, you're not constrained by bus timetables, and you can see the world
at your own pace. If you've cycled regularly, but are finding it harder
with age, then an electric bike could keep you cycling, and therefore
fit and active for years to come, and if you've not ridden since you
were a child, or you're not so fit, then it might be your introduction
to a whole new way of getting about.
How many types of electric bike are there?
are two main types which differ in how they control the motor:
The 'Throttle' type have a
switch or throttle on the handlebar, which you use to turn the motor on
or off and to vary its power, like a moped or motorbike. On most electric bikes you have to be pedalling for the motor to work: this is required by law in many countries. But currently in the UK you don't necessarily have to be pedalling (see 'legal'
below), so some manufacturers supply bikes which let you just twist the throttle at any time for motor assist, so you don't have to pedal at all if you don't want to (sometimes known as 'twist and go'). Applying the brakes will cut the power, as well as slowing the bike, so you can't be carried away when you want
to stop. Incidentally, some machines which do require pedalling let you use the throttle without pedalling only at low speeds, so that the assistance can help you away from a standing start.
It's also worth noting that as with the 'rotation sensing pedelecs' below, 'pedalling' (for motor activation purposes) generally just means turning the pedals. There's no requirement for you to be actually putting in any effort, so if you wish you can just gently wave your feet around to 'fool' teh system into giving you electric assist without you really contributing any work through the pedals.
The main alternative system is the 'Pedelec', which has come to mean an electric bike where the motor works in response to your pedalling - there's no on-off throttle as such. There is often a way to set the assistance level, though. Within this category there are two levels of sophistication.
At the higher end (in price, anyway) tends to be the 'torque sensing pedelec'. With this type, the bike senses how much power you are applying to the pedals, and adds to it - so that when you are pushing hard, you get more help. It's like a boost system which multiplies your strength.
This system requires very little effort to operate - you just pedal and it responds, instead of needing you to
work a throttle. This sort of system also tends to be very good at assisting you from a standing start, because it feels you push strongly as you set off and provides plenty of power in response. However the sensors (often pedal rotation, pedalling force and road speed are monitored) and complex control systems needed to make all of this work does add to the cost.
A less elaborate system is used in a 'rotation sensing pedelec'. Here, the only sensor used is one which checks that you're pedalling forwards, and how fast. Most such bikes simply turn the motor full on (or at whatever assist level you have set) whenever you're pedalling. Or to be more precise, the motor cuts in a few fractions of a second after you start pedalling - so when setting off, you're often straining without assist for at least part of the first pedal stroke until the motor cuts in. Likewise, when you stop pedalling the motor runs for just a fraction of a second after you stop. Generally this type of bike has contacts in the brake levers which also cut out the motor power the instant you squeeze the brakes.
As with the 'throttle type' electric bikes, for rotation-sensing types 'pedalling' (for motor activation purposes) generally just means turning the pedals. There's no requirement for you to be actually putting in any effort, so if you wish you can just gently wave your feet around to 'fool' the system into giving you electric assist without you really contributing any work through the pedals.
Electric bikes also vary in where they put the motor:
Front hub motors have the advantage that they're very easy to add or remove, and they don't interfere with the bike's transmission, so it can easily use low-maintenance hub gears, for example. Rarely will any effect on the steering be noticeable.
Rear hub motors have the advantage that there's no possible effect on the steering, and there's more weight on the back wheel for traction, especially on steep hills. But using one does mean that hub gears are not possible, and they can make removing the rear wheel to fix a puncture (never the easiest job) a little more tricky.
Crank drive systems have the motor near the pedals, driving the rear wheel via the chain, just as you do with the pedals. This means that the motor 'benefits' from the bike's gearing system, so that it can run at its most efficient speed more of the time. Crank drive machines tend to be very good at hill climbing for this reason (hub motors are less efficient at high loads and low speeds). Crank drive systems are only available as 'torque sensing' types, which sense your effort and multiply it. The most popular system of this type is made by Panasonic. Others come from Yamaha, Bosch and more.
As with normal bikes, electric bikes come in all shapes and sizes, with different styles of bike for particular purposes:
for example mountain bikes, folding bikes, racing bikes or town bikes. Town bikes
are one of the most popular styles, and
generally have a fairly upright riding position and include a rack,
mudguards and lights - everything you need for day to day use, or for comfortable leisure riding.
Apart from the motor, all the other parts of an electric bike work in just
the same way as a normal bike. The mechanical parts are generally standard bike parts, available at dealers everywhere.
How heavy are electric bikes?
An electric bike will be heavier than a non-electric one, of course,
because of the battery and the motor - typically the whole bike weighs
between 24-30kg. But a well built bike with a good lightweight frame
will still be easily ridable, and the assistance offsets the
extra weight. If you're likely to need to lift your bike much - for
example to bring into a house, or put onto a train, it's worth trying a
few to check you don't struggle.
How much do electric bikes cost?
As with anything, the price varies according to the quality, and usually,
a little more money will get you a better bike. At the bargain end,
bikes start from around £500, and they can go up to well over £3000, with
plenty of choice in between.
There will eventually be the cost of
replacing the battery to consider, and that can be up to around a third of the original purchase price - although unless you're a heavy user it shouldn't be necessary for several years. It's also wise to keep any bike
maintained - if you aren't able to do that yourself, factor in the cost
of a bike shop service. The cost of each battery charge is very small -
typically 5 to 10 pence to fully charge a battery.
In the UK, it may be possible for employees to get an electric bike at
a discount, through their employer, as part of the CycletoWork
hire scheme. The employer can adminster such a scheme themselves, or
take advantage of a number of orgnisations who will provide the service
for them. The bike is paid for through a salary sacrifice, and at the
end of the hire period is usually offered for sale to the employee.
Savings may work out at 40-50%.
How good are the batteries?
Batteries are key to the performance of an electric bike. They need to be
reliable, store a useful amount of energy and not weigh so much that
they cancel out the benefit of the motor. Battery technology has come
on in leaps and bounds in the last few years - think how big mobile
phones used to be!
The latest generation of bikes generally use lithium-type
batteries. Several different 'chemistries' fall under the 'lithium' description (and several quality levels are available from battery suppliers), but the technical details are beyond the scope of this article. As a consumer, you'll just have to trust a reputable manufacturer to have done the research - and to stand behind their choice.
Any rechargable battery will have a limited lifespan - depending how
often you fully deplete it and charge it, this may range from a couple
of years to many years. When you're choosing a bike, ask about the
seller's battery warranty - a promise that the battery will retain a
certain level of capacity after a certain time or number of charging
cycles. It's also worth considering how well established the retailer
is, as you will need to replace the battery eventually. It's the cost
of battery replacement which raises the price-per-mile of an electric
bike, rather than the tiny cost of the electricity required to charge
Be aware that even batteries that look similar may not be equal in performance. The battery manufacturers offer their products in a range of quality levels, so it may well be the case that if a supplier's battery is more expensive (even if of the same capacity as a cheaper competitor) it may be of better quality, so likely to last longer and/or able to deliver higher peak power.
Another interesting comparison to make is of 'power density', meaning how heavy a battery pack is for a given capacity. More expensive batteries tend to be ligher for the same capacity. Reduced weight is always good for an electric bike, making the bike more of a pleasure to ride and easier to manhandle when parking, too.
How far can I go on one charge?
The range of any bike will depend on a number of factors. These include the
number and steepness of hills, the degree of headwinds, how well your
tyres are inflated, the air temperature, and of course, how much you
use the motor as opposed to just your own power. On a flat route, using
the motor sparingly, a lightweight rider might get 5 times the range of
a heavier person relying on the motor more in hilly terrain. Many bikes
claim an average of 20-30 miles, on flat terrain with gentle pedalling.
Carrying a spare battery will extend that of course, but increase the
weight. If you are likely to come close to this range, it's probably a
good idea to seek the advice of an experienced dealer, and if possible
hire a bike to test on your likely routes.
The capacity of a battery is measured in Watt hours, or Wh. So if a battery had a capacity of 100 Watt hours, it could in theory power a 100W lightbulb for an hour before it ran out.
You'll often see battery capacity quoted instead in Amp hours, or Ah. This is another useful way of comparing batteries of the same voltage: the higher
the Ah, the longer the battery will last and the further you'll go. But Watt hours is a more universal measure, because the power a battery can deliver depends on it voltage as well as the current (amps) it puts out. Watt hours are simply amp hours multiplied by voltage (in Volts, V). Nowadays most electric bike batteries are nominally 36 volts, so Ah is a convenient measure. Typical sizes (at 36 V) are 8 or 10 Ah, with some of the latest larger batteries going as high as 18 Ah or more.
Of course, a higher rated battery will cost more, and weigh more. If your journeys are short, just buy what you need to get there and back with a fair bit in reserve. On the other hand, larger batteries also tend to be better at delivering high peak current levels, which might be useful if you live somewhere hilly.
As a battery ages, it will become less efficient, so the maximum range and peak power will gradually drop towards the end of battery life. Look for a battery guarantee specifying a specific percentage of capacity after a number of years or charge cycles. When a battery does need replacing the cost can be considerable.
How long will the battery take to charge?
Again, this varies from bike to bike, but on average it takes 4-6 hours to
charge the battery fully. In most cases the batteries can be removed
from the bike for charging, so you could keep one spare one charged to
use if necessary. But for most people, the battery can charge overnight
while the bike isn't needed.
How easy is the battery to charge?
Generally, batteries just slot or plug into the charger, which is plugged into a standard
13amp socket. If you intend to take the bike away overnight, it's worth
seeing the charger to check how heavy or bulky it is to carry with you.
Does the battery charge as I ride?
Sometimes! Regenerative braking, or charging as you slow down or go downhill, is
possible, but not often implemented, as it's hard to regenerate useful amounts of charge. It can be especially useful if you have long descents, though, as the drag from the motor as it charges the batteries will ease the load on your bicycle brakes as well as topping up the battery. Systems offering regenerative braking include BionX, Shimano STEPS and a few more.
How fast can I go?
Legally, the motor must stop assisting you when you reach 15.5 mph (25 km/h). Of
course, you can pedal faster than that, and it's certainly possible to go faster than that
downhill, so the top speed is up to you. A good comfortable speed for
general commuting and riding about town is between 10-15 mph, so the
motor should assist you whenever you need it.
What's the legal position on electric bikes?
There are a number of key features which define an electric bicycle in law. Although there's currently a little UK/EU confusion in the regulations, the de facto rules are that the machine must not weigh more than 40kg, the motor power must not
exceed 250 Watts, and the motor must cut out at 15.5mph. In addition,
it must have working pedals, and meet the relevant standards for a
Currently, there is a definite difference between UK and
European regulations in terms of power control. In the UK, it is still legal for the
throttle to be operated without the pedals turning (so that you may
ride on power alone), whereas in Europe, the pedals must be
turning for the power to be applied. It's likely that the UK will soon
come into line with European standards for new bikes, but that anything
currently legal will remain legal.
A rider must be over 14 years old to ride an electric bike, but they
are not required to pay Vehicle Excise Duty, register the bike, have
insurance or wear a helmet. An electric bike may use the same cycle
facilities as a normal bike - such as off-road cycle paths, Advanced
Stop Lines at traffic lights, designated cycle crossings and so on. And
of course, they can use the roads, unless bikes are prohibited (such as
is the case on motorways).
Although you are not required to have insurance, it may be wise to
insure your bike against theft and damage anyway. It is also possible
to get third party insurance, in case you damage someone else's
property while on your bike.
How easy are electric bikes to maintain?
All bikes benefit from a little regular care and maintenance, and
electric bikes are no exception. Simple regular jobs include checking
the tyres are kept pumped up well (this improves the efficiency of the
bike), and not too worn out, checking that the brake blocks are well
aligned and not too worn, making sure all the nuts and bolts are still
tight and keeping the chain clean and lubricated. There are lots of
bike maintenance books that will show you how to do the basics, or you
can take it to a local bike shop for a check over and service. The
electric parts of the bike will generally be sealed units, and intended
to require little maintenance, and for that to be done by a competent
dealer. This is another reason to select your supplier carefully, so
that you can be assured of good service if you have any problems.
How safe are electric bikes?
Riding an electric bike is as safe as riding a normal bike - in fact your
ability to accelerate well and keep up a good speed can give you an
advantage in traffic. Urban traffic may be daunting to a new rider, but
there are lots of things you can do to increase your safety. Firstly,
be alert. Look ahead, expect the unexpected. Glance behind you often,
or use a mirror, so that you are aware of what is coming up behind you.
Keep your brakes covered, in case that pedestrian steps out, or that
car coming out of the side road fails to stop. Try not to ride in the
gutter, where there is likely to be glass and debris, and you have
little room to manoeuvre - ride further out, where you can be more
easily noticed by drivers.
A good guide to modern cycling is the book Cyclecraft.
As a cyclist, you must obey the relevant setions of the Highway Code -
stopping at lights, indicating and so on.
At night, or in poor
visibility, you must have suitable lights fitted. Many electric bikes
have lights fitted, which run off the main battery, and these should be
designed to work well even when the battery is too run down to operate
the motor, since modern LED lights require very little power. Even if
you have lights fitted, carrying some battery back-up lights is a good
idea, and basic front and rear set need not be expensive. If you use
battery lights, check them often to ensure they are still bright.
You are not required to wear a helmet on an electric bike, and whether
you do so is a matter of choice. It's wise not to wear anything that might dangle into
the wheels, or loose trousers that might catch in the chain. In the dusk, a brightly
coloured coat or top will help you stand out, and reflective material
works well at night - a simple vest to wear over your coat is cheap and
effective. Gloves are good not only for keeping your fingers warm, but
also provide a little extra padding for your hands to prevent sore
Choosing an electric bike
If you're thinking of buying an electric bike, a good thing to do is think
about what you'll be using it for - do you want something for pottering
about town shopping, something suitable for long days riding, something
that will fold for storage, or something a bit sporty? You may find
that as you try bikes out, your 'wants' change, but having some
starting criteria will help you to start looking, and help a dealer to
show you the right bikes.
Once you have some idea about this, and what
your budget is likely to be, the best course of action is to visit as
many dealers as you can, and try as many bikes as you can. Obviously,
this will be easier in areas with lots of dealers, but even if you can
only visit one, try to test a few bikes. Different models have
different handling characteristics, and just as one pair of shoes will
feel 'right', one bike is likely to suit you best.
Before you visit a
dealer, think about the questions you might want to ask about each
bike, and the sort of after-sales service the shop can provide. It's
easy in the heat of choosing a big purchase to forget about asking
these sorts of questions, especially if you're new to buying a bike.
Things to consider include weight, battery life, ease of charging, and
availability of spares and servicing.
You can find details of UK
dealers in Electric Bike Magazine, and if you're interested in a
particular brand, check their website to find a dealer local to you.
If you really can't get to a dealer, then the alternative is buying
online. This can work well, especially if you know enough to understand
the specification, and how it compares to your needs. However you'll be
unable to try the bikes before purchasing.
Of course in the case of goods that are faulty, you are
usually covered for returns and refunds under the online dealers terms
and conditions, and reputable suppliers will go the extra mile to make sure you're satisfied.
With any internet purchases, it's important to understand the terms and
conditions of sale, especially regarding warranties. A bike ordered
online will arrive boxed and require assembly, and thorough checking
over before riding - if you are not competent to do this, you will need
to take it to a bike shop, so factor in the cost of this service when
you're comparing prices. Many online retailers require such servicing
in order to validate the warranty.
Other sources of information
Apart from Electric Bike Magazine, there are a number of sources of
information to help you choose and run your bike.
Individual dealers and manufacturers will be well placed to answer
specific queries, and should have contact details on their websites.
AtoB magazine has been reviewing electric bikes for years, as part of
their cycling and sustainable transport remit. There are reviews and
plenty of other information on their website: A to B.
There are plenty of cycling related internet forums, and the most useful is probably the UK based Pedelecs forum, where you can ask questions, seek advice, or just chat with other electric bike users.
An excellent and thorough guide to electric bikes, largely 'crowdsourced' from Pedelec forum members, can be found at Electric Bikes Buyers Guide.
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